Mount Everest has once again made headlines – this time not for a fastest ascent, but for one of the most unconventional. Four British former special forces soldiers, including UK Veterans Minister Alastair Carns, have successfully summited the world’s highest peak in just under five days – without any acclimatisation on the mountain itself.

The climb, completed on May 21st, marks a record-setting ascent for a team bypassing the traditional weeks-long acclimatisation process in the Himalayas. Instead, the group relied on months of simulated altitude training and a controversial method: inhaling xenon gas.

Four British climbers pose on the summit of Mount Everest less than a week after leaving London, in one of the fastest ascents on record of the world’s highest peak, in Nepal (Sandro Gromen via AP)

Rewriting the Rules of Acclimatization?

The four climbers spent six weeks sleeping in hypoxic tents at home, simulating high-altitude conditions by reducing oxygen levels using specialized equipment. Then, just two weeks before heading to Nepal, they inhaled xenon gas at a clinic in Germany – reportedly to stimulate red blood cell production and help the body adapt to thin air.

Upon arrival in Nepal, they flew straight to Everest Base Camp and began the climb immediately, accompanied by five Sherpa guides and a cameraman. They used supplemental oxygen like most high-altitude climbers but skipped the usual acclimatisation rotations between camps.

“They started on the afternoon of 16 May and summited on the morning of 21 May – taking four days and approximately 18 hours,” said expedition organiser Lukas Furtenbach, who has pioneered pre-acclimatisation techniques in the past.

Mountaineering World Divided

While the achievement is undeniably impressive, many in the climbing community are raising red flags about the method.

Experts argue that acclimatisation is not just about red blood cell count, but a complex physiological process involving the brain, lungs, heart, and kidneys – something no single drug or gas can shortcut. The International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation has warned in statement in January:

“According to current literature, there is no evidence that breathing in xenon improves performance in the mountains, and inappropriate use can be dangerous…. Acclimatization to altitude is a complex process that affects the various organs/systems such as the brain, lungs, heart, kidneys and blood to different degrees, and is not fully understood.…”

Veteran guide Adrian Ballinger, who also uses hypoxic tents with clients, expressed concern about promoting xenon as a performance enhancer:

“People are grasping at shortcuts instead of doing the real work of acclimatisation and training.”

The Ripple Effects: Ethics, Tourism, and Certification

This method could potentially redefine how Everest is climbed – but not without consequences. Industry leaders worry that faster expeditions may reduce climber stays in Nepal, directly impacting local tourism.

“If climbers stop acclimatising in the mountains, the length of their stay drops significantly,” warned Damber Parajuli , president of the Expedition Operators Association of Nepal. “This would not only hurt the economy but also breaks the fundamental principles of mountaineering. Authorities should reconsider certifying such climbs.” he told the BBC.

Nepal’s tourism officials said they were unaware the British team had skipped acclimatization and may now re-evaluate regulations for future expeditions. But Furtenbach defends the method, citing lower ecological impact and reduced health risk due to less time spent in high-risk zones like the Death Zone (above 8,000m).

Not the Fastest Ever, But a Historic First

While this expedition is the fastest recorded Everest ascent without acclimatization in the Himalayas, it does not break the overall Everest speed record. That title still belongs to Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa, who reached the summit from base camp in just 10 hours and 56 minutes in 2003 – but only after weeks of on-mountain acclimatization.

What this British team has done is redefine what’s possible with modern technology and extreme preparation – and in doing so, they may have opened a new chapter in Himalayan climbing.

So, finally, What do you think, does Everest need a new rulebook? Or is this the future of high-altitude climbing? Share your thoughts in the comments.

Before you can stand on top of the world and feel the rush of success, your body needs to adapt to
extreme altitudes. Acclimatization is the process that helps you adjust to lower oxygen levels, preventing
altitude sickness and ensuring your body can keep going. It’s a gradual, strategic process that requires
training your body to thrive in thin air.

In this guide, we’ll unlock the science behind altitude acclimatization physiology and show you how
to prepare your body to conquer any summit, safely and effectively. Ready to breathe easier at 5,000
meters? Let’s get started!

Acclimatization Definition and Why Does It Matter?

First things first – let’s break down what acclimatization actually is. Put simply, it’s the process by
which your body gradually adjusts to the lower oxygen levels at higher altitudes. At sea level, the air
contains about 21% oxygen. But when you venture upwards, the air thins, and the oxygen content
decreases, making it harder for your body to absorb enough oxygen. At 3,000 meters (about 9,800
feet), oxygen levels can be as low as 14%.

This is where acclimatization comes in. It’s the process of giving your body time to adjust by
slowly adapting to the oxygen deprivation. Without this gradual adjustment, you run the risk of
developing altitude sickness, which can range from mild symptoms like headaches and nausea to more
severe conditions such as high-altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE) or high-altitude cerebral edema
(HACE). Not exactly the kind of thing you want to deal with on your trip, right?

Don’t worry, acclimatization can be your best friend when it comes to preparing your body. And
it’s not all about the physical symptoms – mental preparation and pacing are just as important.

Why You Need Acclimatization: Key Benefits

If you’ve ever asked yourself, “Do I really need to acclimatize?”, the answer is yes. Even the
fittest climbers can experience altitude sickness if they don’t give their body time to adjust to the
lower oxygen levels at high altitudes. Acclimatization improves your oxygen transport, boosts red
blood cell production, and enhances lung function – all key for maintaining performance and safety
during your climb.

Research shows that acclimatization helps your body adjust by increasing the number of red
blood cells, improving lung function, and ensuring better oxygen transport to tissues. In essence, it’s
your body’s way of becoming more efficient at surviving in challenging environments. The Centers
for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) emphasizes that acclimatization not only prevents altitude
illness but also improves sleep quality, increases comfort, and enhances submaximal endurance.
However, maximal exercise performance at high elevations will always be reduced compared to that at
low elevations.

Hydrate Like a Pro

Hydration is one of the most important factors when acclimatizing to altitude. The dry air at higher
elevations makes dehydration a real threat, and it can make the symptoms of altitude sickness worse.
Did you know that dehydration can cause dizziness, fatigue, and even headaches – three common
symptoms of altitude sickness? Staying hydrated at altitude can alleviate many of these symptoms.
Aim to drink at least 3-4 liters of water a day to keep your body functioning at its best. And
remember – avoid alcohol and caffeine, as they can dehydrate you even more.

Fuel Your Body with the Right Nutrients

Eating well is just as important as drinking enough water. Your body burns more calories at high
altitudes, so you need to fuel up properly to keep your energy levels up. Focus on eating calorie
dense, nutritious meals that provide a balance of carbohydrates, proteins, and healthy fats. Carbs, like
pasta, rice, and bread, will provide quick energy, while fats and proteins will sustain you for longer
periods. Studies found that a high-carb diet can be particularly helpful in maintaining energy levels
and preventing muscle fatigue at higher altitudes.

On May 19, 2025, Andrew Ushakov made mountaineering history by becoming the fastest person to climb Mount Everest from sea level to summit – completing the journey in just 3 days, 23 hours, and 7 minutes. What makes this record-shattering ascent even more remarkable is that Ushakov did it without any prior acclimatization. Ushakov began his record-breaking ascent from sea level in New York City, departing on May 15, 2025, at 12:30 AM local time. From there, he flew to Kathmandu, Nepal, and continued on to Everest Base Camp. In a bold move, he began his climb to the summit on the very day he arrived – skipping the traditional acclimatization period entirely

A full-time engineer and father, Ushakov defied the odds and the doubts of the mountaineering community. His mission wasn’t just about breaking records – it was about proving that ordinary people can achieve the extraordinary.

“I’m ecstatic, although physically exhausted, to have achieved what many said was impossible,” – he said after the climb. “I did this as a regular guy, with a broken arm and a dream. This is for the 99% of people who think big goals are off limits.”

This feat was five years in the making. Ushakov began climbing in 2020 and committed to intense training – often with one arm, after surviving a deadly avalanche in Ecuador just two months before the climb, which left his elbow shattered in seven places. In 2024, his first attempt to climb Everest in just six days ended in heartbreak when he went blind in the death zone, only 300 meters from the summit.

Age is just a number – and Navdeep Sood is living proof of that. The 59-year-old adventure enthusiast from Panchkula, Haryana, successfully summited Mount Everest on the morning of May 18, becoming the second oldest Indian to scale the world’s highest peak and the oldest climber from North India to do so.

The expedition was led by Pioneer Adventure, a well-known guiding company based in Kathmandu. Speaking about the achievement, Nivesh Karki, Managing Director of Pioneer Adventure, said:

“He is the oldest person from North India to summit Everest, and we are proud to have supported his journey. His determination and fitness were truly commendable.”

Sood is no stranger to hard work. A retired Assistant General Manager from the State Bank of India, he stepped away from a successful banking career to pursue a life of adventure. With a background far from the climbing world, he worked his way up, summiting several 6,000+ meter peaks across India and Tibet. It was his climb of Satopanth (7,300 meters) in Uttarakhand that gave him the confidence to attempt Everest.

What makes Sood’s journey even more inspiring is his multi-faceted approach to adventure. He is a licensed solo paraglider, an experienced skier, and a passionate cyclist. In one of his most impressive feats, he cycled solo from Kashmir to Kanyakumari, covering over 4,000 kilometers in just 19 days. On top of that, he’s a dedicated marathon runner, a habit he credits for helping him stay fit for high-altitude climbs. When asked about age being a barrier, Sood replied with a smile:

“Age is just a number. If your will is strong and you stay focused, anything is possible.”

Sood expressed heartfelt thanks to Pioneer Adventure for their expert support, seamless logistics, and guidance throughout the expedition. With Everest behind him, his sights are now set on another major dream: cycling around the world.

His story is not just about reaching the top of the world – it’s about perseverance, passion, and proving that it’s never too late to chase big dreams.

Climbing your first mountain is an unforgettable experience – but beginner climbing mistakes can turn it into a struggle. From poor planning to altitude issues, first-time climbers often fall into traps that experienced hikers know to avoid. In this guide, we’ll cover the most common first summit mistakes and share practical tips for avoiding mistakes on your first climb.

The summit is finally in sight. You’ve prepared, packed, and researched every step of your mountain adventure. But there’s one thing you might not realize: the common first summit mistakes that so many first-time climbers make. Even with the best of intentions, beginner climbers often fall into traps that can derail their entire ascent – sometimes before reaching the halfway point.

Research reveals that nearly 1 in 5 beginner climbers turn back early due to avoidable errors. These climbing beginner mistakes are often caused by poor planning, overexertion, or not understanding key aspects of mountain climbing – like acclimatization, gear management, and sudden weather changes.

No worries, though! With the right preparation and insight, avoiding mistakes on your first climb is absolutely possible. Your first summit won’t just be a victory – it’ll be the start of a lifetime of high-altitude adventures. Let’s break down the top 5 beginner climbing mistakes and how to avoid them.

Mistake 1: Ignoring Acclimatization

“Why am I feeling dizzy and nauseous? I trained so hard for this!”

Story: Imagine you’re cruising up the mountain, full of energy. Suddenly, you reach a higher
altitude, and the world begins to spin. Your breath comes in short gasps, and nausea sets in. This isn’t
just exhaustion – this is altitude sickness.

It’s a Mistake: Acclimatization is often overlooked, but it’s critical. At high altitudes, the air has
significantly less oxygen, making it harder for your body to function properly. If you ascend too
quickly, your body won’t have time to adjust, leading to altitude sickness. Symptoms like headaches,
nausea, dizziness, and even more severe issues like HAPE (High Altitude Pulmonary Edema) can
quickly derail your summit attempt.

How to Avoid It: Take it slow. Follow the 300-meter rule – ascend no more than 300 meters (about
1,000 feet) per day once you hit 2,500 meters (8,200 feet). If possible, climb higher during the day
and descend to sleep at a lower altitude to let your body recover.

Quick Tip: Add rest days in between your climbs to allow your body to adjust. Acclimatization isn’t
just a suggestion – it’s a lifesaver.

Mistake 2: Overpacking and Carrying Too Much Weight

“Better safe than sorry” turns into sore shoulders and slow progress.

Story: On your first summit, excitement might cause you to overpack. Extra gear, redundant tools,
and unnecessary supplies seem like a safety net. But before you know it, your backpack weighs you
down, turning your hike into a burden instead of an adventure.

Mistake 3: Not Hydrating Enough

“I feel great – until I don’t.”

Story: You’ve made it halfway, but something feels off. You’re sluggish, fatigued, and your energy
seems to have vanished. You’re reaching for that last bit of energy in your snack bars, but hydration is
just as important, if not more so, than food.

It’s a Mistake: High-altitude environments are extremely dehydrating. The air is dry, and at higher
altitudes, your body loses moisture more quickly. Even mild dehydration can lead to fatigue,
dizziness, headaches, and impaired performance. Dehydration at high altitudes can increase the risk
of altitude sickness.

How to Avoid It: Drink plenty of water before, during, and after your hike. Aim for about 3-4 liters a
day while climbing at high altitudes. Also, avoid alcohol and caffeine, as they can dehydrate you
further. Electrolyte tablets or hydration powders can help replenish essential salts and minerals, which
are lost through sweat and exertion.

Quick Tip: Use a hydration reservoir to make sipping water on the go easier. Set reminders to drink
water every 30 minutes to ensure consistent hydration.

The 2025 Everest spring climbing season has seen its first foreign casualty. Philipp II Santiago, a 45-year-old climber from the Philippines, died at Camp IV on the night of May 14 while preparing for his summit attempt. He was part of the Mountaineering Association of Krishnanagar: Snowy Everest Expedition 2025.

According to Bodhraj Bhandari, Managing Director at Snowy Horizon Treks, Santiago reached Camp IV late in the night and passed away shortly thereafter. The exact cause of his death remains unknown. Efforts are currently underway to bring his body down to base camp.

This incident marks the first death of a foreign climber on Mount Everest this season, as confirmed by Nepal’s Department of Tourism. Earlier in the season, two Sherpa support staff fell ill at Everest Base Camp and later died after being transported to HAMS Hospital in Kathmandu.

As summit bids continue, this tragedy serves as a somber reminder of the inherent risks associated with high-altitude mountaineering. Our thoughts are with Santiago’s family, teammates, and all those affected by this loss.

When you think of Himalayan mountaineering, it’s easy to picture summit photos, prayer flags flapping in the wind, or the gleam of ice axes high above the clouds. But behind every summit story, there’s another narrative – one of strength, wisdom, and quiet leadership. Sherpas. They are elite climbers, weather forecasters, lifesavers, and high-altitude logisticians. Their unique physiological adaptations and deep cultural connection to the mountains have made them indispensable to climbing history.

photo: Kami Rita Sherpa Facebook

Legacy in Their Blood

The story of the Sherpas isn’t just about climbing mountains – it is the mountain. For centuries, this resilient community has lived high in Nepal’s Khumbu region, where oxygen is thin and peaks touch the sky. Originally migrating from eastern Tibet in the 1500s, Sherpas found a new home among the world’s tallest mountains. Their name, “Shar-wa” in Tibetan, means “people from the east,

But what truly sets them apart isn’t just where they live – it’s how they live. Generation after generation, Sherpas have developed a natural ability to thrive at high altitudes. When the first Western explorers came to conquer Everest and other Himalayan giants, they quickly realized they couldn’t do it alone. Sherpas became the quiet power behind nearly every major expedition- carrying loads, setting ropes, and guiding climbers through deadly terrain. Today, Sherpas are still the heart of Himalayan mountaineering. Their legacy isn’t written in textbooks – it’s carved into ice, rock, and every summit reached. Climbing may be a sport for some, but for Sherpas, it’s heritage. It’s in their lungs, their legs, and their blood.

Legendary Sherpas Who Changed Mountaineering

The Pioneering Legend: Tenzing Norgay

Tenzing Norgay wasn’t just part of history – he made it. On May 29, 1953, alongside Sir Edmund Hillary, he became one of the first two people to stand on the summit of Mount Everest. That moment changed everything. For the world, it was a milestone of human achievement. For Sherpas, it was a turning point -finally showing the world that they were not just porters, but skilled mountaineers in their own right.

But Tenzing’s journey didn’t start in 1953. He had already tried to climb Everest seven times before, including the 1952 Swiss expedition where he reached an astonishing 8,600 meters- just shy of the summit. His deep knowledge of the mountain, unmatched stamina, and calm under pressure were crucial to the British team’s success.

Born in Nepal and raised near Everest in the Khumbu region, Tenzing had a natural bond with the mountains. He climbed with respect, not ego – a mindset still deeply rooted in Sherpa culture today. When asked who reached the top first, he always said it didn’t matter – it was a team effort. That quiet dignity spoke volumes. Tenzing Norgay’s legacy lives on – not only in mountaineering history but in every Sherpa climber who follows in his footsteps. He didn’t just climb a mountain; he lifted a community to new heights.

Lhakpa Sherpa: The Queen of the World’s Highest Peaks

Lhakpa Sherpa is a mountaineering legend – the first woman in the world to summit Everest 10 times, setting a record that no other woman has yet touched. In a sport long dominated by men, especially at the highest levels, she’s not just participating – she’s leading.

Her climbing achievements go far beyond Everest. Lhakpa has also successfully summited K2, the world’s second-highest and most dangerous mountain. This makes her one of the few women to conquer both of these extreme giants. What makes her stand out isn’t just the number of climbs – it’s how she climbs. Lhakpa brings the wisdom of her Sherpa heritage to every expedition: moving efficiently, planning carefully, and respecting the power of the mountains. Her style is grounded in tradition but sharp with modern skill, blending spiritual connection with technical mastery.

The Sherpa Spirit Lives On: Heroes of the Himalayas in 2025

In 2025, the Sherpa community continues to redefine what it means to be a high-altitude climber, moving beyond the traditional focus on Everest summits and sheer numbers to showcase remarkable stories of family achievements, pioneering young climbers, leadership in expedition logistics, and cultural innovation. hese modern-day legends carry forward a legacy that began centuries ago, yet their stories are as vibrant and inspiring as ever.